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Collection: Upgrade Prusa
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  • Sunhokey Prusa i3 direct drive upgrade kit and more
    SummaryIMPORTANT UPDATE: I have added updated versions of the x-carriage left and right bottom plates. These are required due to the lowered hotend mount. You will be unable to print if these parts are not installed. I have also added the promised extruder clip to stop the motor from moving due to extrusion pressure. It's not pretty, but it stops any movement. _______________________________________ This Sunhokey Prusa i3 upgrade kit contains all the parts I believe are necessary to improve the printer's print quality. All of these upgrades (apart from the Z-axis) can be installed using the spare screws left over from building the printer. This is what I was aiming for when I designed the parts. This kit contains: Bowden to direct drive conversion. It will reduce motor skipping, eliminate ooze and wobbling from the bowden tube pressure. Known issue: the motor moves up and down when extruding. I am working on a clip that will attach to the current parts to stop this. Massively lowered nozzle height, requiring new bottom plates on the x-carriage sides to allow the carriage to go lower than before possible. This increases Z height abilities. Dual radial fan blower fan. I have created two version with different height. Please ensure you have enough clearance before printing. I use a longer nozzle than the default so use the taller blower. I recommend powering the fans at between 5-8 volts to reduce vibrations and noise. With two fans, 12 volts isn't necessary. Hotend cooler. I have solved the issue of the cooler falling off by reducing tolerance. The cooler now clips firmly onto the hotend and is more efficient than any other design I have come across. X-Carriage inductive sensor mount. I have included variations for those with 12 or 17mm sensors, and for those with no sensor at all. The mount may need sanding to allow the sensor to fit snug. You will need to glue it in place as there is no space for mounting bolts. However I like to keep mine free as the sensor's reading changes as the ambient temperature changes. The cooler fan also blows air onto it (I will fix this in a later version) so you will need to quickly recalibrate between prints (just twist the sensor into position, takes only a few seconds) Optional Z-axis stabilizer. I recommend not using this as it can cause issues but I thought I would include it anyway. You will require bearings. I use F608zz Shielded Model Flange Bearing 8 x 22 x 7mm. Optional 15mm cylindrical bearing mount. This mount will bolt onto the X-carriage and has cable tie slots to secure the bearings in place. Please give feedback if you experience issues. You will most likely need to sand and drill some pieces to fit as I did. https://youtu.be/XgO2RFq_v3IPrint SettingsPrinter: SunhokeyRafts: NoSupports: NoResolution: 0.2Infill: 25%Notes: All of my parts are printed at 0.2 resolution with no supports required.
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  • Power and Switch module for Sunhokey Prusa I3 2015
    SummaryNeeded to have a power switch and a standard computer socket for the Sunhokey Prusa I3 2015. Print SettingsPrinter Brand: RepRapPrinter: Sunhokey Prusa I3Rafts: Doesn't MatterSupports: Doesn't MatterInfill: 50%
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  • Sunhokey prusa i3 Frame Clamp
    SummarySimple Frame Clamp to fix the sunhokey prusa i3 3D printer to a firm base plate. This will improve the print quality enormous
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  • i3 Prusa Table Mounting
    SummaryClamps to bolt the i3 Prusa machine to the table.
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  • Sunhokey Prusa i3 reinforced y-axis rear stepper motor mount
    SummaryReinforced Y rear bracket. Important items: The center motor axis circle bump is really tight, be prepared to sand. If you add printing support to the m3 nut mount points it might be really tricky to remove it. Be sure to use a wide separation (check your generated layers).
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  • 2015 Sunhokey y-axis front plate replacement - super stiff
    SummaryThis is a direct replacement for the Sunhokey 2015 front plate. The existing Lexan plate is way too soft and deflects over time. This one is much much stiffer.Print SettingsPrinter: Sunhokey Prusa I3Rafts: NoSupports: NoResolution: .020Infill: 40 to 60%
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  • prusa i3 Zonestar P802N P802NA Y idler
    SummaryFor prusa i3 ZONESTAR P802N P802NA Infill 20% Create by bunjatec Edit for P802N by me
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  • prusa i3 (sunhokey) Y endstop mount
    Summarydesigned for sunhokey prusa i3, not sure if this suits others. simple snap-on adjustable mount. requires short m3 screws (~5mm) for attaching the switch
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  • Sunhokey Prusa i3 x-axis mechanical endstop mount
    SummaryX axis mechanical endstop holder for Sunhokey Prusa i3 printer
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  • Y-axis extender for Sunhokey Prusa i3 2015
    SummaryEDIT - 01.12.2015 There was an error in the Y-clamps. Can't believe I didn't notice, but the new ones are fixed. These two parts let you extend the Y-axis to 280 mm. The Y-limit is a part that lets you mount the Y limit switch farther back on the printer, and the Y-clamp is a replacement belt clamp that moves the clamp point towards the motor, and clears the tensioner pulley when it's far forward. The U-shape at one end is there to grip the edge of the Y-carriage to improve stability. There is one for stock bearings and one for my lightweight bearings ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1149490 ) which build 4mm. It fits T2.5 belts. Let me know if you need one for GT2. I am using them on my printer, and have ditched the hotbed for a 250x300 mm acrylic plate to print on instead as I only print PLA. You need to change the firmware to increase the available bed size as EEPROM is locked in the stock configuration. This is the firmware I used as a base: https://github.com/rene-aguirre/MarlinPrint SettingsRafts: Doesn't MatterSupports: Doesn't MatterNotes: Print as they come.
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  • P3Steel / Prusa i3 adjustable configurable Y endstop holder
    SummaryThis is a remix of thing #335726 by greymatterdroppings (Matt). It is an adjustable, configurable Y endstop holder. It can be adjusted for height and depth allowing for precise adjustment of the Y home position, and it can be configured for use with either any Prusa i3 variant with 8mm rods (e.g. the Prusa i3 vanilla or the improved Twelvepro Prusa i3), or the P3Steel. Also, the limit switch is attached to a small carrier and two carrier choices are possible: either the Makerbot a.k.a Sainsmart mechanical switch, or a plain miniature limit switch. OpenSCAD sources (with proper attribution to Matt) are included so this part can be edited to taste.InstructionsNo bridges! Can be printed in ABS or PLA. 35% infill works for me and results in strong parts. Requires 1 x M3 12mm hex bolt and nyloc nut for the P3Steel mount. Requires 4 x M3 16mm or 20mm bolts, washers and nyloc nuts for the adjustable parts. Requires a nylon zip tie or 2 x M3 12mm bolts and nyloc nuts depending on carrier choice.
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Sunhokey Prusa i3 direct drive upgrade kit and more SummaryIMPORTANT UPDATE: I have added updated versions of the x-carriage left and right bottom plates. These are required due to the lowered hotend mount. You will be unable to print if these parts are not installed. I have also added the promised extruder clip to stop the motor from moving due to extrusion pressure. It's not pretty, but it stops any movement. _______________________________________ This Sunhokey Prusa i3 upgrade kit contains all the parts I believe are necessary to improve the printer's print quality. All of these upgrades (apart from the Z-axis) can be installed using the spare screws left over from building the printer. This is what I was aiming for when I designed the parts. This kit contains: Bowden to direct drive conversion. It will reduce motor skipping, eliminate ooze and wobbling from the bowden tube pressure. Known issue: the motor moves up and down when extruding. I am working on a clip that will attach to the current parts to stop this. Massively lowered nozzle height, requiring new bottom plates on the x-carriage sides to allow the carriage to go lower than before possible. This increases Z height abilities. Dual radial fan blower fan. I have created two version with different height. Please ensure you have enough clearance before printing. I use a longer nozzle than the default so use the taller blower. I recommend powering the fans at between 5-8 volts to reduce vibrations and noise. With two fans, 12 volts isn't necessary. Hotend cooler. I have solved the issue of the cooler falling off by reducing tolerance. The cooler now clips firmly onto the hotend and is more efficient than any other design I have come across. X-Carriage inductive sensor mount. I have included variations for those with 12 or 17mm sensors, and for those with no sensor at all. The mount may need sanding to allow the sensor to fit snug. You will need to glue it in place as there is no space for mounting bolts. However I like to keep mine free as the sensor's reading changes as the ambient temperature changes. The cooler fan also blows air onto it (I will fix this in a later version) so you will need to quickly recalibrate between prints (just twist the sensor into position, takes only a few seconds) Optional Z-axis stabilizer. I recommend not using this as it can cause issues but I thought I would include it anyway. You will require bearings. I use F608zz Shielded Model Flange Bearing 8 x 22 x 7mm. Optional 15mm cylindrical bearing mount. This mount will bolt onto the X-carriage and has cable tie slots to secure the bearings in place. Please give feedback if you experience issues. You will most likely need to sand and drill some pieces to fit as I did. https://youtu.be/XgO2RFq_v3IPrint SettingsPrinter: SunhokeyRafts: NoSupports: NoResolution: 0.2Infill: 25%Notes: All of my parts are printed at 0.2 resolution with no supports required.
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Power and Switch module for Sunhokey Prusa I3 2015 SummaryNeeded to have a power switch and a standard computer socket for the Sunhokey Prusa I3 2015. Print SettingsPrinter Brand: RepRapPrinter: Sunhokey Prusa I3Rafts: Doesn't MatterSupports: Doesn't MatterInfill: 50%
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Sunhokey prusa i3 Frame Clamp SummarySimple Frame Clamp to fix the sunhokey prusa i3 3D printer to a firm base plate. This will improve the print quality enormous
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i3 Prusa Table Mounting SummaryClamps to bolt the i3 Prusa machine to the table.
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Sunhokey Prusa i3 reinforced y-axis rear stepper motor mount SummaryReinforced Y rear bracket. Important items: The center motor axis circle bump is really tight, be prepared to sand. If you add printing support to the m3 nut mount points it might be really tricky to remove it. Be sure to use a wide separation (check your generated layers).
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2015 Sunhokey y-axis front plate replacement - super stiff SummaryThis is a direct replacement for the Sunhokey 2015 front plate. The existing Lexan plate is way too soft and deflects over time. This one is much much stiffer.Print SettingsPrinter: Sunhokey Prusa I3Rafts: NoSupports: NoResolution: .020Infill: 40 to 60%
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prusa i3 Zonestar P802N P802NA Y idler SummaryFor prusa i3 ZONESTAR P802N P802NA Infill 20% Create by bunjatec Edit for P802N by me
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prusa i3 (sunhokey) Y endstop mount Summarydesigned for sunhokey prusa i3, not sure if this suits others. simple snap-on adjustable mount. requires short m3 screws (~5mm) for attaching the switch
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Sunhokey Prusa i3 x-axis mechanical endstop mount SummaryX axis mechanical endstop holder for Sunhokey Prusa i3 printer
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Y-axis extender for Sunhokey Prusa i3 2015 SummaryEDIT - 01.12.2015 There was an error in the Y-clamps. Can't believe I didn't notice, but the new ones are fixed. These two parts let you extend the Y-axis to 280 mm. The Y-limit is a part that lets you mount the Y limit switch farther back on the printer, and the Y-clamp is a replacement belt clamp that moves the clamp point towards the motor, and clears the tensioner pulley when it's far forward. The U-shape at one end is there to grip the edge of the Y-carriage to improve stability. There is one for stock bearings and one for my lightweight bearings ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1149490 ) which build 4mm. It fits T2.5 belts. Let me know if you need one for GT2. I am using them on my printer, and have ditched the hotbed for a 250x300 mm acrylic plate to print on instead as I only print PLA. You need to change the firmware to increase the available bed size as EEPROM is locked in the stock configuration. This is the firmware I used as a base: https://github.com/rene-aguirre/MarlinPrint SettingsRafts: Doesn't MatterSupports: Doesn't MatterNotes: Print as they come.
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P3Steel / Prusa i3 adjustable configurable Y endstop holder SummaryThis is a remix of thing #335726 by greymatterdroppings (Matt). It is an adjustable, configurable Y endstop holder. It can be adjusted for height and depth allowing for precise adjustment of the Y home position, and it can be configured for use with either any Prusa i3 variant with 8mm rods (e.g. the Prusa i3 vanilla or the improved Twelvepro Prusa i3), or the P3Steel. Also, the limit switch is attached to a small carrier and two carrier choices are possible: either the Makerbot a.k.a Sainsmart mechanical switch, or a plain miniature limit switch. OpenSCAD sources (with proper attribution to Matt) are included so this part can be edited to taste.InstructionsNo bridges! Can be printed in ABS or PLA. 35% infill works for me and results in strong parts. Requires 1 x M3 12mm hex bolt and nyloc nut for the P3Steel mount. Requires 4 x M3 16mm or 20mm bolts, washers and nyloc nuts for the adjustable parts. Requires a nylon zip tie or 2 x M3 12mm bolts and nyloc nuts depending on carrier choice.
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